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Exhaust Systems Polaris® RZR® S 1000

HMF Racing Twin Loop Exhaust Instructions

For Models: RZR® S 1000 (2016-2021)


!!! Before working on your machine make sure it is parked on a level surface with the transmission in park and/or the parking brake engaged.  Do not work on any machine with a hot engine or exhaust, allow time for all parts to cool in order to reduce the risk of burns.

1. Remove the (2) bolts at the head pipe to silencer joint and the (2) springs that hold the silencer against the frame.  Remove the silencer.  

NOTE: Save the two springs that were used between the silencer and head pipe, they will be used later during installation.

2. Inspect the donut gasket on the factory head pipe.  If worn or damaged replace with a new OEM gasket.


1. The RZR S 900 / S 1000 Exhaust Hanger Bracket fits all vairiations of the stock Polaris frames.  See Figure #1 to determine what type of frame you have.  If you have a dimple in the frame (Figure #1A), proceed to step 2 then skip step 3.  If you do not have the dimple (Figure #1B) proceed to step 3.(See Figure #1)

Twin Loop Exhaust Instructions - Figure 1

2. Remove the upper nut for the transmission mount. Install the supplied bracket under the frame rail using the (2) Spacer Brackets (90° bent part), (2) M8-1.25x30 Bolts, (2) 5/16" Fender Washers, (2) 1/4" Flat Washers, (2) M8-1.25 Nylock Nuts along with the original transmission mount nut.
The spacer brackets are inserted from the right side and sit between the vehicle's frame and the top of the bracket to act as a spacer accomodating for the dimple in the frame.  Use the larger fender washers on the top of the frame and smaller washer inside the frame channel. (See Figure #2)

Twin Loop Exhaust Instructions - Figure 2

3. Remove the upper nut for the transmission mount. Install the supplied bracket under the frame rail (as shown in Figure #2) using the supplied (2) M8x1.25x25 Hex Bolts, (2) M8x1.25 Nylock Nuts, (2) 5/16" Fender Washers, and (2) 1/4" Flat Washers to secure the bracket to the upper frame rail.  Replace the transmission mounting nut to secure the lower part of the bracket.

NOTE: Some frames have a hole at Figure #1B-Arrow 1, and some will have a hole at Figure #1B-Arrow 2.  Use the mounting hole that is present on your frame to install the bracket.

Important: Due to the variation in frames and different tolerances on some machines, there are an additional (2) 3/8" USS Washers (thick washers) that can be used as additional spacers between the frame and mounting bracket.  Before tightening the bracket ensure that it is sitting level within the frame.  Misalignment of the mounting bracket will result in difficulty installing the silencers, clearance issues, and poor alignment.  

4. Install the lower silencer with the 180 degree bend and outlet tip to the lower mounting holes in the bracket and loosely secure it with the provided (2) M8x1.25x20 Hex Bolts, (2) M8x1.25 Nylock Nuts, and (4) 1/4" Flat Washers.  (See Figure #3)

Twin Loop Exhaust Instructions - Figure 3

5. Slide the provided Clamp over the 180 degree bend of the silencer.

6. Install the upper silencer by sliding the outlet into the 180 degree bend of the lower silencer and rotating it so that the inlet matches up with the factory head pipe.  Loosely secure the inlet flange to the factory head pipe using the original springs removed previously and the provided (2) M10x60 Shoulder M8 Bolts, and (2) 3/8" USS Washers.(See Figure #4)

Twin Loop Exhaust Instructions - Figure 4

Tip: If the inlet for the HMF silencer is misaligned with the original headpipe it may be necessary to loosen the headpipe from the engine slightly.  Then proceed to finish installation of the system and tighen the headpipe back to the engine when completed.  

7. Secure the upper silencer to the mounting bracket using the (2) M8x1.25x20 Hex Bolts, (2) M8x1.25 Nylock Nuts, and (4) 1/4" Flat Washers. 

8. Check for proper clearance and alignment then tighten all hardware between the silencers and bracket, the T-bolt Clamp between the silencers, and the inlet flange bolts. 

Final Notes:

If you received a stainless steel exhaust without the Blackout coating it is normal for the pipes to change color as they heat cycle.  

The HMF Blackout exhaust will smoke and put out an odor for the first full heat cycle as the coating goes through its final curing process.  It is recommended to allow this process to happen in a well ventilated area.

All systems will produce a smoke out the end cap after a short initial heat cycle, this is the packing material bedding in and is completely normal.


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