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Exhaust Systems Polaris® RZR® S 1000

HMF Racing Slip On Exhaust Instructions

For Models: RZR® S 1000 (2016-2021)


1. Be sure the vehicle's engine and exhaust are cool to the touch, and that the vehicle is parked on level ground, with the transmission in Park, and the wheels chocked.

2. Remove the (2) bolts and springs from the head pipe to muffler joint.  Set the springs aside.  You will reuse them with your HMF Slip-On Exhaust.

3. Using a Long piece of electrical wire, or spring puller, remove the spring from the bottom of the muffler and the spring from the left side of the muffler.  Pull straight back to remove the muffler from the vehicle.  

4. Remove the (2) rubber isolators from the frame of the vehicle.  These will not be reused with your new HMF Slip-On Exhaust.

5. Remove the top rear transmission mount nut and set aside.  The bottom portion of the supplied muffler bracket will mount to this location.


1. Check the original donut gasket for wear or damage.  Replace if necessary.  

2. The RZR S 900-1000 / General Exhaust Hanger Bracket fits all variations of the stock Polaris® frames.  See Figure #1 to determine which frame type you have.  If you have a dimple in the frame (Figure #1 A.), proceed to Step 3 and skip step 4.  If you do not have a dimple on the frame (Figure #1 B), proceed to Step 5.(See Figure #1)

Slip On Exhaust Instructions - Figure 1

3. Install the supplied bracket under the frame rail using the (2) Spacer Brackets (90° bent part), (2) M8-1.25x30 Bolts, (2) 5/16" Fender Washers, (2) 1/4" Flat Washers, (2) M8-1.25 Nylock Nuts along with the original transmission mount nut.
The spacer brackets are inserted from the right side and sit between the vehicle's frame and the top of the bracket to act as a spacer accomodating for the dimple in the frame.  Use the larger fender washers on the top of the frame and smaller washer inside the frame channel.  

4. Install the supplied bracket under the frame rail (Figure #2) using the supplied (2) M8-1.25x30 Bolts(2) 1/4" Flat washers, (2) 5/16" Fender Washers, and (2) M8-1.25 Nylock Nuts along with the original transmission mount nut.  

Note: Some frames have a hole at Figure #1 B - Arrow #1, and some will have a hole at Figure #1 B - Arrow 2.  Use the mounting hole that is present on your frame to install the HMF Mounting Bracket.

Important: Due to the variation in frames and different tolerances on some machines, there are an additional (2) 3/8" USS Washers (thick washers) that can be used as additional spacers between the frame and mounting bracket.  Before tightening the bracket ensure that it is sitting level within the frame.  Misalignment of the mounting bracket will result in difficulty installing the silencer, clearance issues, and poor alignment.  (See Figure #2)

Slip On Exhaust Instructions - Figure 2

5. Using the supplied (2) M8-1.25x20 Bolts(4) 1/4" Flat Washers and (2) M8-1.25 Nylock Nuts, attach the HMF Slip-On Exhaust to the bottom set of holes on the HMF Mounting Bracket installed on prior step. 

6. Slide the supplied (2) 3/8" USS Washers over each of the (2) Shoulder Bolts.  Slide the original springs over the shoulder bolts and secure the flange on the HMF exhaust to the factory flange on the head pipe.   

Note: HMF highly recommends applying anti-sieze lubricant to the threads on these bolts before installation.  (See Figure #3)

Slip On Exhaust Instructions - Figure 3

Tip: If the inlet for the HMF silencer is misaligned with the original headpipe it may be necessary to loosen the headpipe from the engine slightly.  Then proceed to finish installation of the slip on and tighen the headpipe back to the engine when completed.  

7. Check all areas for proper clearance and alignment.  Adjust as necessary.  (See Figure #4)

Slip On Exhaust Instructions - Figure 4

Final Notes:

If you received a stainless steel exhaust without the Blackout coating it is normal for the pipes to change color as they heat cycle.  

The HMF Blackout exhaust will smoke and put out an odor for the first full heat cycle as the coating goes through its final curing process.  It is recommended to allow this process to happen in a well ventilated area.

All systems will produce a smoke out the end cap after a short initial heat cycle, this is the packing material bedding in and is completely normal.


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