For Models: RZR Pro XP® (2020-2021)
!!! WARNING !!! Before working on your machine, make sure it is parked on a level surface with the transmission in park and/or the parking brake engaged.
Do not work on any machine with a hot engine or exhaust. Allow time for all parts to cool in order to reduce the risk of burns.
Blackout Exhausts: Take care not to get grease or oils on the exhaust. Cleaning our Blackout exhaust with harsh solvents, abrasives, or pressure washers will remove the coating and is not covered under warranty.
1. Remove the plastic fascia covering the original silencer.
2. Remove the heat shields around the turbocharger and downpipe.
3. Disconnect and remove the oxygen sensor from the original downpipe. Set the sensor aside for installation later.
4. Remove the (3) nuts securing the downpipe to the silencer.(See Figure #1)
5. Support the downpipe near the (3) bolt flange using a bungee cord or similar method to keep it from falling down when the silencer is removed.
6. Using a spring puller, wire, or rope remove the (2) springs securing the silencer to the frame. Carefully remove the silencer from the vehicle.
7. Using a 6mm allen socket remove the (4) bolts securing the downpipe to the turbocharger.(See Figure #2)
Tip: Spray down the (4) downpipe to turbo bolts with penetrating oil before attempting to remove them. Allow the solvent to soak in for about an hour, don’t forget to clean up any solvent before starting the engine. These bolts are notorious for seizing in the turbocharger. New bolts are provided with the exhaust. If the threads in the turbo appear to be damaged slightly use a thread chase to repair minor damage (M8-1.25 threadpitch).
8. Remove the downpipe from the vehicle being careful not to lose the metal gasket between the downpipe and turbocharger. This gasket will be reused during installation
1. Remove the two upper bolts from the heatshield. These bolts will not be reused.
2. Remove the nut from the lower transmission brace. Do not discard this nut.
3. Install the provided silencer mounting bracket as shown below using the nut previously removed as well as the provided (2) M6-1.0x45 Hex Bolts, (2) #10 Flat Washers, and (2) 33mm Aluminum Spacers.(See Figure #3)
4. Line up the downpipe to turbocharger gasket and install the HMF downpipe using the provided (4) M8-1.25x20 Allen Bolts. (See Figure #4)
5. Support the HMF downpipe near the (3) bolt flange using a bungee cord or similar method to prevent damage to the flex joint.
6. Install the collector to the HMF downpipe using the provided (1) 3-Hole Flange Gasket, (3) M8-1.25x35 Hex Bolts, (3) M8-1.25 Stover Nuts, and (6) ¼” Flat Washers. (See Figure #5)
7. Slide one of the silencers (they are identical) onto the lower collector pipe. Loosely secure with the provided (2) M8-1.25x25 Hex Bolts, (2) M8-1.25 Nylock Nuts, and (4) ¼” Flat Washers. Leave the hardware loose at this point to allow for adjustment and alignment later. (See Figure #6)
8. Remove the bungee or other support from the downpipe.
9. Slide the remaining silencer onto the upper collector pipe. Loosely secure with the provided (2) M8-1.25x25 Hex Bolts, (2) M8-1.25 Nylock Nuts, and (4) ¼” Flat Washers. Leave the hardware loose at this point to allow for adjustment and alignment later. (See Figure #7)
10. Align the lower silencer so that it is parallel with the vehicle then tighten the mounting hardware. There is just enough room to slip a 13mm wrench between the silencers and mounting bracket and another 13mm wrench between the mounting bracket and heatshield.
Tip: We recommend aligning the silencers to a fixed point such as the radius rod mounting points or another fixed point on the frame and not the heatshield.
11. Using a spring puller, wire, or rope install the provided (2) Long Neck Springs between the silencers and collector. (See Figure #8)
12. Install the provided License Plate Bracket using the original hardware from the rear fascia plastic.(See Figure #9)
Note: The license plate bracket has been designed for US motorcycle or automotive license plate mounting standards. Hardware to mount a license plate is not included.
13. Place the provided Heat Shield Square on the plastic where it is closest to the top collector pipe.
Optional: If necessary the rear plastics can be trimmed for a larger air gap between the exhaust and body panels. In testing no issues were found. High ambient temperatures, slow riding speeds, high loads, and extended idling periods may require the plastics to be trimmed or additional heatshielding.
14. Reinstall the heatshield around the turbocharger using the original hardware.
15. Reinstall the oxygen sensor to the HMF downpipe and plug it back into the wiring harness.(See Figure #10)
Wipe off any fingerprints or markings using a soft cloth and mild detergent such as soap and water or glass cleaner without ammonia. Once the exhaust heat cycles any oils left on the exhaust may permanently imprint.
If you received a stainless steel exhaust without the Blackout coating it is normal for the pipes to change color as they heat cycle.
The HMF Blackout exhaust will smoke and put out an odor for the first full heat cycle as the coating goes through its final curing process. It is recommended to allow this process to happen in a well ventilated area.
All systems will produce a smoke out the end cap after a short initial heat cycle, this is the packing material bedding in and is completely normal.
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