For Models: Commander 1000 (2014-2020), Commander 800 (2014-2015)
!!! WARNING !!! Before working on your machine, make sure it is parked on a level surface with the transmission in park and/or the parking brake engaged. Do not work on any machine with a hot engine or exhaust. Allow time for all parts to cool in order to reduce the risk of burns.
Blackout Exhausts: Take care not to get grease or oils on the exhaust. Cleaning our Blackout exhaust with harsh solvents, abrasives, or pressure washers will remove the coating and is not covered under warranty.
1. Tilt the bed into the dump position and disconnect the tail light and differential lock wire harness connectors.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness from the frame of the vehicle for the tail lights and differential lock. The wiring harness should now only be attached to the dump bed.
3. Brace the bed and remove the hitch clip and pivot pin for the bed strut. Move the strut out of the way or remove it from the vehicle by unbolting it at the lower mounting point. Carefully lower and relatch the bed.
4. Using a 13mm wrench remove the (4) bed pivot clamp nuts. Remove the aluminum dog-bone plates and remove the lower pivot clamp halves from each side.(See Figure #1)
5. With the assistance from another person, unlatch the bed and remove it from the vehicle. Be careful not to lose the upper pivot clamp halves. Set the bed aside being careful not to damage the wiring harness or pivot hardware.
6. Remove the cover/heatshield over the muffler.(See Figure #2)
7. Using a spring puller or long piece of wire/rope remove the (4) springs between the silencer and headpipe.
8. Remove the (2) silencer mounting bolts.
9. Pull the stock silencer up and out of its lower rubber mounts and remove the silencer from the machine.
10. Remove the rubber damper between the frame hanger and stock midpipe.
11. Using a spring puller or long piece of wire/rope remove the (4) springs between the stock midpipe and rear headpipe. Repeat for the front headpipe. The connection for the midpipe to front headpipe is located on the driver side under the sway bar. (See Figure #3)
12. Remove the stock midpipe.(See Figure #4)
13. Inspect the donut gaskets at the front and rear cylinder head, if worn or damaged replace with new.
14. Access the rear cylinder head and loosen the (2) nuts securing the rear headpipe to the cylinder head enough so that the headpipe can rotate. The rear headpipe will need to rotate slightly to align properly with the HMF midpipe.
1. Remove the (2) bolts securing the differential brace to the frame on either side of the differential. Save the nuts they will be used to install the silencer brackets.
2. Install the Mounting Brackets with the included (4) M8-1.25x65 Allen Bolts, (4) ¼” Washers, (4) ¼” Aluminum Spacers, and (4) stock nuts. The spacers install between the vehicle’s frame and brackets.(See Figure #5)
3. Position the HMF midpipe so that the flared inlets match with the donut gaskets on the factory headpipes. You may need to rotate the rear headpipe to achieve proper alignment.
4. Using the provided (4) Long Neck Springs secure the HMF midpipe to the factory headpipes to keep the midpipe in place. (2 on the front head pipe, 2 on the rear)(See Figure #6)
5. Slide the inlet of the HMF silencers onto the HMF midpipe so that the holes for the internal silencer mount line up with the mounting holes in the previously installed brackets. Loosely secure the silencers to the brackets using the provided (4) M8-1.25x20 Hex Bolts, and (4) ¼” Flat Washers. (See Figure #7)
Note: Having all parts loose is critical to getting all parts to line up and install properly. It may be necessary to make multiple adjustments and twist or pull on some components to achieve proper alignment. Do not tighten any hardware until all exhaust parts have been installed.
6. Install the provided (2) Long Springs between the HMF midpipe and silencers. (See Figure #8)
7. Check that the cap for the additional O2 sensor bung is snug unless using an auxiliary air-fuel meter or other tuning device requiring use of the bung is going to be used.
8. Tighten the hardware securing the HMF silencers to the mounting brackets. Do not overtighten or the internal mounts in the silencers may break.
9. Double check that all connections are aligned properly to prevent leaks then tighten the rear head pipe to cylinder head connection that was previously loosened.
10. With the help of another person place the dump bed back on the vehicle making sure the upper pivot clamp halves are placed over the bolts before the dump bed rests on the pivot pins.
11. Install the lower pivot clamp halves and dog-bone plates then install and tighten the original nuts.
12. Carefully unlatch the dump bed and tilt it back. Re-install the gas strut previously removed/disconnected.
13. Route the wiring harness for the dump bed back into its original position, secure as needed and plug back into the vehicle.
Wipe off any fingerprints or markings using a soft cloth and mild detergent such as soap and water or glass cleaner without ammonia. Once the exhaust heat cycles any oils left on the exhaust may permanently imprint.
If you received a stainless steel exhaust without the Blackout coating it is normal for the pipes to change color as they heat cycle.
The HMF Blackout exhaust will smoke and put out an odor for the first full heat cycle as the coating goes through its final curing process. It is recommended to allow this process to happen in a well ventilated area.
All systems will produce a smoke out the end cap after a short initial heat cycle, this is the packing material bedding in and is completely normal.
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